Merhawit. G.M., 2023
Acrylic on canvas, 467х328
Asmara, Eritrea
How does the traveller see it?
(Fragment of a post from a Facebook page)
The artist’s name is Merhawit. She and her son live in a tiny apartment where the kitchen, bedroom and study are all one room. Her husband is in prison, and she doesn’t want to talk about it. After spending some time as a guest at her place, I simply had to purchase this work of hers, despite it being clear propaganda. There are two types of art in Eritrea: emigrant art and propaganda. The country’s lone gallery features the work of Eritreans who live abroad, and their art is not really native African creation; it is more like a European portrayal of Africa. The prices are European, too, and the works were all painted ten or more years ago.

The local “KGB” can no longer force emigrant artists to make art by decree, but Merhawit – living in Eritrea – has to comply. I offered to buy a painting off her (as well as a replica of a famous photograph) in which warrior-girls raise the Eritrean flag on a mountaintop –– on the condition that she replace it with the Ukrainian flag. This, believe it or not, scared the artist. If someone turns her in, she’ll be sent to prison, the guide confirmed. People who express dissent often simply disappear. Eritrea’s Russian future is near.